Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Christmas, Olmsteders Invade Prague, & Silvester

December was a busy month and deserves more than one post, but life's tough. Sorry December 2012. So after we returned from Neil's swim meet, we dove into all of the Christmas cheer Berlin had to offer. With 20+ markets in the city, we had plenty to chose from. We hit a one-weekend market at the Jagdschloss in Grunewald, one in the center of the city, and thanks to a visit from the Shores' of Gdansk, we hit the most beautiful of all at Schloss Charlottenburg. Also, we got a Christmas tree.
Bus to Grunewald

Hike to the Jagdschloss Weihnachtsmarkt

Annika's only visit to Santa this year.
She loved it.

City Weihnachtsmarkt treats.

Schloss Charlottenburg Weihnachtsmarkt

Our tree.
























































We also had Thanksgiving redux with Annika's boyfriend Guzzi and his parents. (Sidebar: I have to say that all of our German friends do not disappoint in the name department. Guzzi's real name is Gustav and his parents are Rebecca and Georg Von Mitzlaff). We try to get together for dinner every few weeks so the kids can play, and the adults can talk. They had hinted at their desire to have an American Thanksgiving but weren't available for our actual Thanksgiving extravaganza, so we did it a few weeks late. Apart from Guzzi maybe trying to strangle Annika as we tried to get them to hug, it was a great success. Also, it snowed, and I made a really creepy snowman.

Turkey time.

Playing nice.


YOU WILL HUG ME!

Awwwwww.

Yikes. I have no excuse. Just yikes.

A few days later, it was Christmas. It was pretty low-key because the next day we were off on the train to Prague! I had been greatly looking forward to it after James did nothing but rave about the one day he spent there after Thanksgiving. We would also soon figure out that a number of other Olmsted scholars and their families would be visiting the City of a Hundred Spires/Golden City. The Christmas market and all of the Christmas decorations were still in full swing, and it made a beautiful city even more amazing. We sampled some of the delicious and definitely not healthy market fare including some cinnamon-sugar-coated doughnuts which were roasted on a spit over hot coals. I also must say that the Christmas tree was one of the best I saw anywhere, and my picture does not do it justice. Also, we learned what is not allowed in Czech banks.

Christmas morning

Annika enjoying everyone else's gifts.

Train to Prague

Nom, nom, nom.

Christmas market entertainment,

Prague Christmas tree.

No guns...or dogs. I assume everything
else is fair game?

















































The next day we walked all over Prague...literally. We trekked up to an Eiffel Tower replica and then up the Eiffel Tower replica which offered some great views of the city. En route, we saw a large golden femur suspended above the street. No explanation was ever offered as to why it is there. On the way back from there, we stopped into the Toy Museum which Annika loved...don't mind the picture which indicates otherwise. We also saw the largest straw nativity in the world. That night, we had dinner with the Flammias (Olmsted 2012, Firenze, Italia) and the Johnsons (Olmsted 2011, Ljubljana, Slovenia) in a Czech restaurant and brewery. (I basically never have pictures of mealtimes because trying to coral the monster and also maintain some level of involvement in conversation while eating is about all I can handle). It was, as always, a pleasure to hear everyone's stories and just catch up on goings on in English.

Golden femur.

Mini Eiffel Tower way up there.

Us way up there.

Straw nativity.

Annika enjoying the toy museum.
The following day we did some more walking and took in sights including the Jewish quarter, a giant metronome, and more great views of Prague. We also had lunch at a great bike-themed restaurant. The menus were international and based on the famous bike races of Europe, and they offered a discount with your ticket to the Jewish quarter sites (Yahtzee).
Le Tour menu.

Giant metronome.

Another stunning view of Prague.


Our last full day in Prague we took it easy after what must have been 10 miles of walking over the previous 2 days. We had dinner that night at a train-themed restaurant with the Johnsons and the Musas (Olmsted 2011, Rabat, Morocco). It was a great way to finish our trip there and another evening of wonderful conversation plus the added bonus of the adorable Musa boys entertaining Annika a bit (Again, sorry for the lack of pictures. Just trust me, they are beautiful children). The next morning after a beautiful sunrise run, we grabbed breakfast at a bagel place which not only had a playroom but also adhered to my strict dietary guidelines. Then we hopped a train back to Berlin for the New Year's Eve (known in Germany as Silvester) festivities.
Prague at sunrise.

I love gluten!
We had heard that Berlin was home to one of the best Silvester celebrations in the world. It did not disappoint. With a child, your New Year's Eve is not as wild and crazy as it once may have been. I have never been a huge fan of New Year's Eve, so that suits me really well. We headed downtown to the main festivities relatively early in the evening just to check it out. There was more food and drink than one could ever hope to sample, so we grabbed a drink, walked around a bit, and took in the entertainment. As we would find out watching at home from the couch, the early evening entertainment is just the main show entertainment doing their sound checks and dress rehearsals. We heard a couple of songs from Blue, a British boy band from the early 2000s making a comeback. We kind of dig them. We then headed home and put Annika to bed so we could enjoy a bit of champagne and awesome German television coverage which included an attempt at the Guinness Record for the most people doing the Gangnam Style dance at once. As with all German television, it was awesome and terrible. We readied ourselves for the fireworks which are legal to buy three days (12/28-31) and shoot off one day a year. You know how when you were a kid on Halloween you would binge on candy because it was really the only time you were allowed to go totally nuts? It's like that but with the stereotypical German strength and vigor. Amazingly, Annnika slept right through it, and around 2:30 we could hear ourselves think as the noise finally dwindled.




Blue killing it.

Brandenburger Tor festivities.

Our fireworks extravaganza.

With that, I am finally caught up on 2012...and only 7 months into 2013! Not too shabby.
Coming up:
  • More snow
  • Snowy Easter and trip to Bulgaria and Vienna
  • The snow ends and we try not to die doing a triathlon
  • The great train adventure through the Netherlands, Belgium, and France...and Germany.

Monday, July 29, 2013

Christmas in July...Barely

I think I may have hinted when I first started this blog that I am a terrible blogger. I am inconsistent and tend to get sidetracked by almost anything else. As a person who has a difficult time sitting still, it does not come naturally to me to sit and write/type. I think about a lot of things I want to write whilst doing other things (swimming, biking, running, cleaning, chasing Annika around various European cities), but the actual manifestation of those thoughts as a blog entry are rarely seen. This is evidenced by the fact that my last update was about Thanksgiving and typed in March. This summer is full of travel and visitors, and as such, I need to get my act together or give up. I'm not much of a quitter, so I am going to attempt to do a few quick recaps of some of what we've been doing since last November. Here goes:

So excited that I took a
screenshot. I was so
innocent back then.
In early December we headed to Freiburg for die Deutsche Kurzbahnmeisterschaft (German master's swimming championship) and then to Ramstein AFB for Neil's flight physical and a trip to the commissary. On the way we planned on stopping Bayreuth to split up the drive time for the monster and check out a Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas market). It was the beginning of Weihnachtsmarkt season, and I have to admit that as a lover of Christmas it was one of the German traditions I was most looking forward to experiencing, but I'm getting ahead of myself. We left around Annika's bedtime figuring she would fall asleep in the car for a bit. In typical form, she screamed pretty much the entire trip and then decided to shove her hands in her mouth and gag herself...all over her car seat...on day 1 of a 9 day road trip. ..literally 2 minutes from the hotel. The trip was off to a bang-up start, but as an eternal optimist (This is a lie. I am, at best, a realist who leans towards the bright side as long as I've had a chance to run that morning) I had faith that at least it would most likely not get too much worse.
Annika playing/drinking/reading...all
better than screaming/puking.

Fortunately, I was right for a change. Bayreuth was a cute little town with a cute little market. We strolled around a bit and the headed the rest of the way to Freiburg. I had learned my lesson after 45 minutes of car seat cleaning in a hotel bathroom the night before, so I assumed what is now my permanent position for car rides longer than 20 minutes in the middle-back seat next to Annika. It's not the most comfortable but definitely beats the alternative.

We made it to Freiburg with no major incidents and, after a few quick spins around the city due to some construction, found our hotel. Neil had a swim meet the next day, so we took a quick tour of the Weihnachtsmarkt before heading to dinner and turning in. We were all up early the next day, and Neil headed off to the pool. Annika and I headed to watch him swim a little bit later and then headed back to the hotel for a quick nap. I want to take this opportunity to say that while I appreciate that swimming is excellent exercise and recognize that Neil is super-fast, I wouldn't mind if he swam races lasting longer than a minute and a half. Don't get me wrong. They are almost always exciting, but it is stressful to try to catch the right bus to get to the pool in time to actually catch the fleeting event but not get there so early that Annika loses her patience (which oddly enough takes about as long as his race). The whole round trip takes, on average, about thirty times as long as the time he is actually in the pool. I guess what I'm saying is that if Annika decides to be a swimmer, I hope she at least swims some middle-distance races. Anyhoo, after Annika's nap, we stuck around near the hotel until the meet was over. Fortunately, the market was right behind the hotel, so we walked around, sampled some Glühwein, and made some friends until it was time to meet back up with Neil.
Annika in the gutter.
Annika checking out the market.


Annika and her new friend after playing in the gutter

Time for a drink.
We made our way back to the hotel to meet Neil and the Wahls (the Olmsteders in Freiburg) who had just returned from some travels of their own. We made our way to a delicious dinner and then back to the hotel so Neil could get ready for day 2 of the Meisterschaft. The next day the Wahls graciously opened their home to us and we spent one more night in Freiburg. Annika was entertained by Liv (their adorable and patient dog), and we saw some of the sights courtesy of our wonderful tour guides. After safely completing a guest picture for them, we headed back for a Mexican feast. It is always great to catch up with other Olmsted folks and see what everyone is up to in their respective cities. Thanks again Joe and Trysta!
Neil, Annika, and the slightly-too-tall hotel tree.

Deutsche Meisterschaft

Annika & Liv


The next day, we made our way to Ramstein via Karlsruhe so that Neil could get his flight physical and we could stock up on necessities like cooking spray, non-granulated brown sugar, and chicken stock. We hit the Karlsruhe market for lunch and continued on our way. We also got to see our first (and sadly far from last) snow of the season. We met up with a few people from Neil's squadron at McChord and watched a man with a keyboard sing (being diplomatic with that word) some Christmas favorites. To be fair, he was singing in what may have been his third language, and I could definitely at least tell what song he was singing. We made it home without incident and got ready for our first Christmas in Berlin.

Karlsruhe Schloss

Weihnachtsmarkt lunch

Waiting for the Ramstein shuttle/getting
use out of the snow boots.

Ramstein library during Daddy's dentist appt.





No Bing Crosby, but a valiant effort.

Coming up:

  • Christmas 2K12
  • All the street food one can eat in Prague
  • Snowy Easter and a trip to Bulgaria to warm up...obviously
  • More swim meet travels
  • The Hoff tries to save the East Side Gallery
  • Midwest Senkowski visit/Berlin 70.3/Warsaw
  • Northwest Europe by train
  • Whatever else I can squeeze in before we leave for Denmark in a week.



Friday, March 8, 2013

Berlin Thanksgiving 2K12

I'm not sure where to start with this one. What follows is the story of how what initially was going to be a Thursday with a slightly bigger dinner for Neil and I became a multinational Thanksgiving weekend including a lot of food, a lot of booze, a lot of shopping (for me), and an evening at "the hottest club in Berlin."

Growing up, the Tarone Thanksgivings were always pretty low-key. We had all of the traditional elements: turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing, pumpkin pie, the Macy's parade, etc. Other than that, it was usually just the four of us (Mom, Dad, James, me) with the occasional other guest(s) as the rest of the relatives were scattered around the country. Once I started working, I never had enough seniority anywhere to get the day before or after Thanksgiving off, so, save for the Delaware years, it was just another day which sometimes included Neil and a big meal and sometimes not. So when we moved to Berlin, I anticipated making some of the staples for Neil and I but figured we would probably have class and other goings on to contend with because in Germany it is just another Thursday in November. Shortly after we got here, my brother and my friend Colleen floated the idea of a Thanksgiving visit by the two of them which later came to include Amanda, a friend of my brother's from college. I had heard-tell of Fakesgivings/Friendsgivings, and they always sounded super-fun so I was totally on-board.

Everyone arrived safely on Wednesday, and in spite of James wearing basketball shorts, Germany and Colleen allowed him to enter the country. We didn't plan much for that day because I figured between jet lag and preparations for the next day, we would all want to conserve energy. We did venture out to the Bundestag because it requires very little effort and offers nice views of the entire city. What I did not account for was the effect of cold outside temperatures on a glass dome full of people. Think fogged-up car windows on a Fall morning. Nevertheless, I think everyone got to see some of the city's sites from above, and no one fell asleep. Afterwards, we picked up some Döners and rolled back home. The visitors went out for some German beer and I stayed home to put Annika to sleep and prep for the big meal the following day. I should backtrack at this point to explain that we had added a few more diners to our Thanksgiving feast. We had a babysitter for Annika for a few months last year named Alice. Alice was here from the UK during her gap year between high school and university. She would normally have been babysitting Annika on a Thursday while I was at class, so I decided to invite her to dinner. Speaking of my German class, Siggy is an American who has been living in Berlin for over 20 years. She is a jazz singer and actress, and has toured all over Europe and Germany. I asked her if she had plans, and she seemed excited to swing by for some home-cooked, American Thanksgiving staples. The last addition to our party was Caroline. Caroline is the granddaughter of the woman who babysat James and I when we were children. Her mother married a Swiss man and has been living in Switzerland since before any of us were born. The whole family would come to visit every summer for 6 weeks, and since we were close in age, Caroline, her brother Chris, her sister Lisa, James, and I became friends. Long story longer, Caroline lives back in Switzerland now but used to live in Berlin, and through the wonders of Facebook, we figured out that she would be here for a visit over Thanksgiving. It had been nearly 20 years (if I had to guess) since any of us had seen one another, and I was thrilled that she was able to stop by for a bit. That made a total of 8 adults and one monster for dinner.

A blur in an adorable turkey dress...thanks Ama!
I could get into the trials of trying to cook a Thanksgiving meal for 8 adults in a Euro-sized kitchen, but that could take a while. I had figured out a way to get a turkey and some stuffing in the oven, two chickens on the grill, mashed potatoes & brussel sprouts on the stove, and pies made the night before...problem solved. On Thanksgiving day, our only plans were to do some sort of run/walk combo in Tiergarten and hit the grocery store for a few last-minute foodstuffs and a lot of booze. Tiergarten is Berlin's version of Central Park, littered with running/walking paths and a handful of historical monuments and buildings. James and I decided to run, and Colleen and Amanda opted to take Annika in the jogging stroller for a brisk walk.

CC and Annika at Brandenburger Tor.

Mommy, Uncle James, and Annika pre-run. 




















We miraculously all made it back to the apartment at around the same time allowing us to put Annika down for her nap before Neil got home from class so we could hit the grocery store. The beautiful thing about Thanksgiving at the grocery store in Berlin is that it's not Thanksgiving in Berlin and thus there are no crowds or clamoring for dwindling supplies on the shelves. Once we got back, I got to prepping all of the birds and Colleen went about concocting our signature cocktail for the evening...bourbon and some other stuff, it was delicious! Around this time, we decided that we could use some ice cubes for said signature beverage. This is no small task in Berlin, and James, armed with the phrase, "Haben Sie Eiswürfel?" headed out to the stores. Sie hatten keine Eiswürfel (no luck), but James found some plastic bag ice cube making things, and that did the job.

You're only getting the before picture because I took
no after picture because I was drunk.

Business end of the bird.


A few hours, a few glasses of wine, a couple of trips to the wine store,  and a few bourbon cocktails later, dinner was ready and all of the guests had arrived. In addition to the booze, Colleen took over appetizers and brussel sprouts and music (obvs) which kept everyone busy until Neil got back from class and all of the birds were cooked to an internal temperature of 165 degrees Fahrenheit. We took a couple of pictures to prove that it happened, and then we all ate and drank and talked and laughed and ate some more. It was perfect.

Neil, Alice, Amanda, Caroline, James, me, Annika, Colleen, and Siggy...and the food.
The next day, James and Amanda headed to Prague for a quick trip. Colleen and I headed out to explore some of the shopping Berlin had to offer. When it comes to traveling and shopping, Colleen is a true professional: efficient, focused, lethal. I made a decision a few years ago that before I buy any article of clothing I ask myself, "What would Colleen think of this?" It has yet to lead me astray. Nevertheless, I had Annika in tow, so I could only hang for few hours. Colleen rocked Berlin all day, and for that reason, when Neil got back from swim practice that night, we decided that we would head out for a nice, casual dinner and get back early enough to be well-rested for a day of Flohmärkte (flea markets) and more shopping on Saturday. It started out as planned, and we decided on a restaurant that I had been wanting to try mainly because when we asked to see menus they brought us free drinks. After dining on polenta and wine, the place had pretty much cleared out save for a very drunk man in a suit, another man in black jeans and a leather jacket, and their friend who appeared to be slightly more drunk than the first man. The man in the suit was the proprietor of the Porsche boutique and acted as such. The man in the leather jacket didn't speak much, and the other friend spoke a lot in a mix of drunken German and English. After renaming us Kaleenka and Ginalisa, the Porsche clothing salesman told us he wanted to take us to the "hottest club in Berlin" which apparently was "gleich um die Eke" (right around the corner). We would be drinking White Russians. I should note here that Berlin is known for its club culture and that I live .5 miles from the restaurant and the hottest club in Berlin is definitely not anywhere in the vicinity. Curious, we hopped/were shoved into a cab and headed to Universum Lounge, a small bar attached to a shady casino. As our humble Porsche salesman friend punched a code into the door keypad, he told us the club was for Charlottenburg and Grunewald (nearby sections of Berlin)VIPs only. Once inside, there was a middle-aged white man with a Macbook playing some decent music. The club was full of a bunch of slightly older men with slightly younger blond women with lots of makeup in tight pants and 5" heels. In spite of Porsche man's outright disapproval, Colleen did not order a White Russian. Quiet man in leather continued to stand nearby and not speak, and I started to wonder if we were getting involved in some kind of underground escort market/sex slavery ring. It got weird when he took Kaleenka's hair out of its ponytail, rearranged it, and refused to let her smoke. We stayed for the rest of our drink and some more solid hip hop before calling it a night and heading back home. I don't get out much, so as far as I was concerned it was a pretty spectacular evening.

The next day, Kaleenka and I did some Annika-free shopping. I do not possess the endurance to hang with Colleen, but I marvel at her skill and eye for beautiful things. We scoured the Flohmarkt and headed to Primark which is kind of like H&M but awesomer. I survived the day, and James and Amanda survived Prague. That night, we all went to an adults-only dinner. After dinner James and Colleen went HAM on some Berlin bars and clubs while Amanda and I joined Neil in heading back home early. Neil had the excuse that he had a swim meet the next day. My only excuse was that shopping all day wore me out.

Sunday arrived, and everyone decided to sleep in. Uncle James managed to stay asleep on the couch even after Annika woke up and decided to play not-so-quietly on the floor next to him.

At least she shared her stuffed animals.
We managed to get out the door in time to catch Neil at his swim meet. After that we did some of the standard sightseeing things in Berlin...Checkpoint Charlie, the Berlin wall memorial on Bernauer Strasse, and Topography of Terror. Annika got lugged along and eventually fell asleep. We made it back to the apartment in time for the Pittsburgh Steelers game, and Colleen did a heroic job of not killing herself. She loves sports but is not a Steelers fan. We donned our freshly minted Berlin Thanksgiving t-shirts for a few more pictures, and then we brought the weekend to a close.

Colleen's favorite part of the football game.

Yes, that is a turkey drinking a beer and holding the German flag.
I've got nothing for this one.














Everyone headed back home on Monday, and we got back to normal Berlin life for about a week before heading back to the southwest for Neil's flight physical and German Masters National Championship swim meet. I am almost as worn out from rehashing the weekend's shenanigans as I was at the end of the actual weekend, so it may be another 3 months before I get to telling the tale of that trip.

Now that's the sign of a good weekend.

Coming up, when I recover:

  • Weinachtsmärkte, a totem pole, and a swim meet.
  • Christmas and an Olmsted-filled trip to Prague
  • New Year's Eve AKA Silvester AKA Best. Foreworks. Ever.
  • What happens when I ski for the second time ever and the first time in 16 years...you can guess how this one ends.
  • There's this thing called the sun, and I think I might have seen it last week...then again...