Thursday, August 1, 2013

Things We Did Half a Year Ago

Upon perusing my photos from January, it looks as though we didn't really do anything which will make the January recap super easy. It was cold, we went to a few Berlin museums, Neil resumed classes, and Annika thought she could avoid bedtime by hiding in the bathtub. Also, we spent a couple of nights in the hospital due to a nasty respiratory bug for monster. The main amusement there (apart from Winnie the freaking Pooh painted on the wall) was the fact that every morning for breakfast, Annika received a walnut yogurt. I think that would be tantamount to attempted assisted suicide in the US, but there is less/no nut fear here. Annika starts the Kita next week, and I have yet to hear mention of eine Nuss. I know that nut allergies are very real and scary, but I can't help but wonder why the overall incidence and handling of nut allergies is so different here. Moving on...
Berlinische Galerie

Berliner Dom

Less stealthy than she
believes herself to be.

Walnut yogurt. Anaphylaxis avoided.














After a grueling January, February got off to an exciting start with Karneval/Fasching/Mardi Gras. I will say that it seems to be more about costumes and booze than about beads and nudity. This suits me just fine because:
1.) We don't need beads or any other non-essential junk around.
2. ) It's cold at the beginning of February.
Up in Berlin there are, of course, parades and parties because Germans also enjoy the opportunity to drink more than normal during the day. We happened upon the parade by chance as we walked to lunch on the first Sunday in February. There were floats with costumed people tossing candy and slightly creepy stuffed animals (so much for no junk), so Neil and Annika were entertained.
Annika loving the horse-
drawn carriage.

Giant turnip float throwing candy.















Neil sharing his loot.

It is a far bigger deal in Bayern which is the southern and more religious part of the country. Fortunately for us we had planned a ski trip to Garmisch-Partenkirchen where there is an Army post attached to a ski resort. This also meant we would get to load up on cooking spray and brown sugar at the commissary, but I'm getting ahead of myself. Another bonus of this was that Annika could be dropped off at the CDC for a very reasonable fee so that Neil and I could ski unfettered. That is to say unfettered by Annika. I was plenty fettered by the skis and poles and my lack of real skiing experience. I went skiing once. I was 17, and I joined my friends with their church youth group on a week long trip to Vermont. It was awesome, and I think I skied for a total of about 5 hours over 6 days, but I digress. About 2 hours into the first day of skiing, I had the thought that maybe I could take advantage of the fact that Annika was someone else's responsibility and go get a pedicure or massage. Instead I foolishly stayed on the mountain with Neil. I kept insisting that he go ahead, but he kept insisting that he wanted to ski with me. This was a sweet idea, but what I think he meant was that he wanted me to be a better skier so I could ski with him. After a rough (and by rough, I mean completely miserable) run down an intermediate slope before lunch, it was decided that we would ski separately for the rest of that day and the following one. There is probably an entire entry or two here about how men and women and particularly we do things differently, but I will spare everyone. That afternoon we picked Annika up from the CDC and tested out her new sled around the hotel. One of Neil's former coworkers who is stationed at Ramstein happened to be there with his family, so we met them out for dinner that night. We enjoyed a traditional Bavarian meal and also happened to get a taste of some awesome and totally scary Fasching costumes. The next day, we survived a bit more skiing before heading to München the following day.
Neil, ready to ski better than me.

She stayed in the sled for almost 5 minutes.

This mask is creepy, right?
Happy Mardi Gras!

Yes, he smelled like fresh pine.
Annika loved it/was terrified.

This kid sat completely still like this for
about 15 minutes. 

Nice view from the gondola
























































Zugspitze.
We made our way sorely and stiffly to the home of the Murphys (Olmsted 2011, München) where we met Pat. His wife Susan and the kids were in the US for a visit, but he was gracious enough to let us stay with him on what would have been a probably-much-needed quiet/empty-house weekend. We tried not to be a bother and headed to check out the Olympic park and the BMW museum. It was cold but sunny which was nice as we had not seen much of the big yellow orb in the sky in Berlin. We meandered through the BMW museum, saw some cool concept cars, and tried to move fast enough to keep Annika from getting bored and at the same time actually learn some things. While it is not entirely surprising, it was still somewhat alarming to learn that they utilized workers from the Dachau concentration camp for construction projects and also for manufacturing. I've never liked BMWs, so this is just one more reason not to buy one. I will say that, overall in Germany, they are very transparent now about everything that occurred during WWII and later in the DDR. The presentations at the various museums and memorials is very straightforward and almost clinical. We have found that it is a constant struggle for Germany as a nation to take responsibility for the transgressions in your past and also move forward with a sense of national pride about the things that your country has become. Again, this could be another entry and probably will be...you've been warned.
At any rate, our time in the BMW museum gave the day time to warm up so that we could make our way through Olympiapark. I make no secret about the fact that I love the Olympics, so it was exciting to see the venues of one of the most memorable Olympics to date. We walked in and saw the pool where Mark Spitz won 7 gold medals and broke 7 world records and saw from a distance the site of Olympic Village where 11 Israeli athletes were killed. A trip that evening to the Hofbräuhaus for dinner completed our first quick tour of München. The next day, after a delicious breakfast prepared by Pat, we were on our way back to Berlin but not before a stop at Dachau concentration camp. I imagine that the impact of walking into one of these camps never diminishes. It is truly impossible to grasp the things that went on at these places, and I think the memorials and museums are a vital part of keeping the memory of the prisoners who passed through the gates alive.
Us reflected in the BMW museum.

BMWs through the years.

Olympiapark.

Olympic swimming pool.

Hofbräuhaus.

Labor makes you free.

The grounds of Dachau.
The rest of February came and went without anything terribly exciting. It snowed a few more times, and Annika made, in my opinion, a really advanced Valentine's Day card for Neil. We headed into March with the false hope that spring was right around the corner. 
See what I mean? 



Coming up:

  • March snow
  • A swim meet at a witch pilgrimage site
  • The Hoff returns to Berlin
  • McDonalds taunts me as I ride on the bike trainer
  • Winter becomes the spring of our discontent





Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Christmas, Olmsteders Invade Prague, & Silvester

December was a busy month and deserves more than one post, but life's tough. Sorry December 2012. So after we returned from Neil's swim meet, we dove into all of the Christmas cheer Berlin had to offer. With 20+ markets in the city, we had plenty to chose from. We hit a one-weekend market at the Jagdschloss in Grunewald, one in the center of the city, and thanks to a visit from the Shores' of Gdansk, we hit the most beautiful of all at Schloss Charlottenburg. Also, we got a Christmas tree.
Bus to Grunewald

Hike to the Jagdschloss Weihnachtsmarkt

Annika's only visit to Santa this year.
She loved it.

City Weihnachtsmarkt treats.

Schloss Charlottenburg Weihnachtsmarkt

Our tree.
























































We also had Thanksgiving redux with Annika's boyfriend Guzzi and his parents. (Sidebar: I have to say that all of our German friends do not disappoint in the name department. Guzzi's real name is Gustav and his parents are Rebecca and Georg Von Mitzlaff). We try to get together for dinner every few weeks so the kids can play, and the adults can talk. They had hinted at their desire to have an American Thanksgiving but weren't available for our actual Thanksgiving extravaganza, so we did it a few weeks late. Apart from Guzzi maybe trying to strangle Annika as we tried to get them to hug, it was a great success. Also, it snowed, and I made a really creepy snowman.

Turkey time.

Playing nice.


YOU WILL HUG ME!

Awwwwww.

Yikes. I have no excuse. Just yikes.

A few days later, it was Christmas. It was pretty low-key because the next day we were off on the train to Prague! I had been greatly looking forward to it after James did nothing but rave about the one day he spent there after Thanksgiving. We would also soon figure out that a number of other Olmsted scholars and their families would be visiting the City of a Hundred Spires/Golden City. The Christmas market and all of the Christmas decorations were still in full swing, and it made a beautiful city even more amazing. We sampled some of the delicious and definitely not healthy market fare including some cinnamon-sugar-coated doughnuts which were roasted on a spit over hot coals. I also must say that the Christmas tree was one of the best I saw anywhere, and my picture does not do it justice. Also, we learned what is not allowed in Czech banks.

Christmas morning

Annika enjoying everyone else's gifts.

Train to Prague

Nom, nom, nom.

Christmas market entertainment,

Prague Christmas tree.

No guns...or dogs. I assume everything
else is fair game?

















































The next day we walked all over Prague...literally. We trekked up to an Eiffel Tower replica and then up the Eiffel Tower replica which offered some great views of the city. En route, we saw a large golden femur suspended above the street. No explanation was ever offered as to why it is there. On the way back from there, we stopped into the Toy Museum which Annika loved...don't mind the picture which indicates otherwise. We also saw the largest straw nativity in the world. That night, we had dinner with the Flammias (Olmsted 2012, Firenze, Italia) and the Johnsons (Olmsted 2011, Ljubljana, Slovenia) in a Czech restaurant and brewery. (I basically never have pictures of mealtimes because trying to coral the monster and also maintain some level of involvement in conversation while eating is about all I can handle). It was, as always, a pleasure to hear everyone's stories and just catch up on goings on in English.

Golden femur.

Mini Eiffel Tower way up there.

Us way up there.

Straw nativity.

Annika enjoying the toy museum.
The following day we did some more walking and took in sights including the Jewish quarter, a giant metronome, and more great views of Prague. We also had lunch at a great bike-themed restaurant. The menus were international and based on the famous bike races of Europe, and they offered a discount with your ticket to the Jewish quarter sites (Yahtzee).
Le Tour menu.

Giant metronome.

Another stunning view of Prague.


Our last full day in Prague we took it easy after what must have been 10 miles of walking over the previous 2 days. We had dinner that night at a train-themed restaurant with the Johnsons and the Musas (Olmsted 2011, Rabat, Morocco). It was a great way to finish our trip there and another evening of wonderful conversation plus the added bonus of the adorable Musa boys entertaining Annika a bit (Again, sorry for the lack of pictures. Just trust me, they are beautiful children). The next morning after a beautiful sunrise run, we grabbed breakfast at a bagel place which not only had a playroom but also adhered to my strict dietary guidelines. Then we hopped a train back to Berlin for the New Year's Eve (known in Germany as Silvester) festivities.
Prague at sunrise.

I love gluten!
We had heard that Berlin was home to one of the best Silvester celebrations in the world. It did not disappoint. With a child, your New Year's Eve is not as wild and crazy as it once may have been. I have never been a huge fan of New Year's Eve, so that suits me really well. We headed downtown to the main festivities relatively early in the evening just to check it out. There was more food and drink than one could ever hope to sample, so we grabbed a drink, walked around a bit, and took in the entertainment. As we would find out watching at home from the couch, the early evening entertainment is just the main show entertainment doing their sound checks and dress rehearsals. We heard a couple of songs from Blue, a British boy band from the early 2000s making a comeback. We kind of dig them. We then headed home and put Annika to bed so we could enjoy a bit of champagne and awesome German television coverage which included an attempt at the Guinness Record for the most people doing the Gangnam Style dance at once. As with all German television, it was awesome and terrible. We readied ourselves for the fireworks which are legal to buy three days (12/28-31) and shoot off one day a year. You know how when you were a kid on Halloween you would binge on candy because it was really the only time you were allowed to go totally nuts? It's like that but with the stereotypical German strength and vigor. Amazingly, Annnika slept right through it, and around 2:30 we could hear ourselves think as the noise finally dwindled.




Blue killing it.

Brandenburger Tor festivities.

Our fireworks extravaganza.

With that, I am finally caught up on 2012...and only 7 months into 2013! Not too shabby.
Coming up:
  • More snow
  • Snowy Easter and trip to Bulgaria and Vienna
  • The snow ends and we try not to die doing a triathlon
  • The great train adventure through the Netherlands, Belgium, and France...and Germany.